Down climb ~20', some 5.2 rock and walk back to your packs. (A belay is nice for the traverse) A single 60m rope rappell into the open book gets you to a stable ledge. Scoot down the notch and straddle the ridge by the belay anchors. If you can tolerate the rope drag you can combine pitches 4 and 5.Ĭontinue up the slabs until reaching the summit anchors and register.įollow the summit ridge along the east face until reaching a notch. From the base of the summit slabs the route becomes 5.3-5.4 with occasional protection but very secure climbing. (~60-70’) From the slabs it is possible to continue to the summit creating a bit of rope drag. 120-150’.įrom the chock stone the route ascends directly up the face until reaching the summit slabs.
#MUTT AND JEFF CRACK#
Follow the crack to the ridge and step up and over the ridge to the north side of the Wedge belaying on a monstrous chock stone.
After the initial run out the off width crack narrows and accepts a variety of gear from brown tri-cams to #2 camalots to assorted stoppers. The guidebook mentions the 5.9 finger crack to the left offers nice variation, but we found it to be thin and slightly flared. The climbing is fairly sustained but secure. Larger gear (#5 Camalot or big, Big Bros) is required for the first ten to twenty feet or run the rope out a bit. Long slings or double ropes to reduce drag are helpful on this pitch.įrom the hanging belay the third pitch continues in the off width crack to the ridge. Sustained 5.8 climbing with great position and exposure. After scumming through the off width the climber reaches a hanging belay with 3/8” bolts. Pull the last roof with awesome exposure and enter an off width crack accepting “smaller protection” (#2-#3 Camalot) in the back of the off width. The roofs accept large protection in the #3.5-#4 Camalot range, with the last roof being the crux.
#MUTT AND JEFF SERIES#
Hanging belay pitch two.From the belay anchor on pitch one, the route ascends a long corner system to a series of roofs to the left of the Cyclops Eye. A nice sized parking area, vault toilet and an informational kiosk mark the trailhead.
Turn left at the stop sign and follow the improved gravel road for 3 miles. Getting There From I-90To reach the Wedge, drive south on I-15 for approximately 26 miles to Exit 99, Moose Creek Road. Leave your dogs at home and get as close to a true wilderness climbing experience as possible. Please respect the traditional ethics of this wonderful place. Climbing here is a wonderful experience in a beautiful setting. The Wedge has something for just about everyone, from long moderate traditionally protected climbs on the west and southwest faces to harder test pieces on the north face of the rock. The Wedge was one of the first developed climbing areas in Montana and many of Montana's best climbers have climbed here at one time or another. Managed by the BLM, this pristine roadless area contains many granite spires and monoliths. Saving Earth Britannica Presents Earth’s To-Do List for the 21st Century.Overview The Wedge lies within The Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area.Britannica Beyond We’ve created a new place where questions are at the center of learning.100 Women Britannica celebrates the centennial of the Nineteenth Amendment, highlighting suffragists and history-making politicians.
#MUTT AND JEFF HOW TO#
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